When we think of a zipper foot, we usually think of installing zippers. But this clever little presser foot is capable of so much more.

One of my favourite alternate uses?
Creating and inserting handmade piping into garment seams.

If you’ve read our previous tutorial, Mastering Bias Binding: A Complete Guide for Quilters and Sewists, you’ll already know how to create continuous bias tape using the square method. Today, we’re building on that skill — and putting the zipper foot to work in a whole new way.

Why the Zipper Foot is Perfect for Piping

Piping requires stitching very close to a raised cord. A standard presser foot cannot get close enough without riding up over the cord, which can lead to uneven stitching and inconsistent results.

The zipper foot, however, is designed to stitch alongside raised elements. Its narrow profile allows the needle to sit close to the cord without distortion, making it ideal for:

• Creating the piping casing
• Securing piping into a seam
• Achieving crisp, professional-looking results

It’s precision control at its best.

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Machine Requirements

1. All PFAFF sewing machines
   
   While this technique works on most modern sewing machines, the following features make piping especially smooth and controlled:

• Adjustable needle position
  This allows you to fine-tune how close you stitch to the cord without shifting the fabric.
• Stable, consistent stitch formation
  Even stitch tension is key when sewing over layered seams.
• IDT™ System (Integrated Dual Feed)
  Particularly helpful when working with slippery or layered fabrics, as it feeds both layers evenly and prevents shifting.

Straight stitch capability with precise control
A standard straight stitch is all you need — accuracy is what counts here.

Other tools

To create and insert handmade piping, you’ll need:

• Bias strips (cut on the bias using the continuous method from our previous tutorial)
• Piping cord (cotton or polyester)
• Fabric glue stick (temporary fabric adhesive) - recommended
• Sharp scissors or rotary cutter
• Steam iron

Selecting the Correct Bias Width

Bias width depends on:

• Seam allowance
• Cord diameter
• Ease required to wrap the cord

In this example:

• Seam allowance: 1 cm
• Cord size: 4.5 mm
• Bias strip width used: 4 cm

This provided enough fabric to enclose the cord comfortably while allowing precise stitching close to the cord with the zipper foot.

Bias Width Guide (1cm Seam Allowance)

Cord Width	Bias Strip Width
3mm	3–3.5cm
4mm	3.5–4cm
4.5mm	4cm
5mm	4–4.5cm
6mm	4.5–5cm

Rule of thumb:
Bias width ≈ (2 × seam allowance) + cord width + ease
For most garments with a 1cm seam allowance, this will fall between 3.5 cm and 4.5 cm.

Sewing Instructions

Step 1: Create the Piping

1. Place the cord along the centre of your bias strip.
2. Fold the fabric over to enclose the cord.
3. Attach the zipper foot.
4. Adjust the needle position so it sits close to — but not piercing — the cord.
5. Use a slightly elongated straight stitch. This ensures that if any stitching is visible after insertion, it can be easily removed.
6. Stitch the full length to form the piping casing.

Step 2: Position the Piping

1. Lay the garment piece right side up.
2. Align the raw edges of the piping with the garment seam edge.
3. Use a fabric glue stick to secure the piping to the first side of the garment (if you do not have a fabric glue stick, pin and then machine baste first). This prevents shifting and distortion and allows you to sew the seam in one step.

Step 3: Stitch the Seam

1. Place the second garment piece on top, right sides together, sandwiching the piping between the layers.
2. Attach the zipper foot.
3. Move the needle position slightly so it sits directly over the garment seam line (1cm in this example), rather than over the original piping stitching.
4. Stitch the seam in one continuous pass.

Because the zipper foot rides neatly against the cord, the piping will sit snugly and evenly once the seam is turned.

Step 4: Finish

• Trim and grade seam allowances if needed to reduce bulk.
• Press carefully with steam, shaping the seam without flattening the piping.
• Remove any visible elongated stitches if necessary.

Final Tips

• Test first.
  Always stitch a small sample using the same fabric, cord, and seam allowance before sewing your garment.
• Clip curves before turning.
  On curved seams, clip the seam allowance (not through the stitching) to help the piping sit smoothly.
• Start and finish neatly.
  Overlap piping ends carefully or trim the cord out of the final 1–2 cm so the seam can close cleanly without excess bulk.
• Keep the cord snug against the foot.
  Let the zipper foot ride gently alongside the cord rather than pushing the fabric. This keeps the piping consistent.
• Press with control.
  Use steam and shape the seam — avoid flattening the piping itself.
• Adjust needle position rather than fabric placement.
  Small needle shifts create more accurate seams than trying to manually guide the piping closer.

Attention to these small details is what gives piping its crisp, defined appearance. Once you begin using your zipper foot beyond zippers, you’ll discover just how powerful precise control can be in elevating your garment finishes!

Happy sewing!
— Gracie

Congratulations on finishing your project!We can’t wait to see what you create! Don’t forget to share them with us on Instagram, tagging @pfaffsewingaus and using the hashtags #pfaffsewingaustralia #pfaffsewing #perfectionstartshere or our Facebook page Pfaff Australia